Wireless Alarms or a Hard Wired System?
In this article we are going to explain the difference between wireless alarm systems and hard wired alarms. We'll highlight the pros and cons of each from an installation and end user's point of view. We'll also cover the cost difference as well as other factors which should arm you with all the information you need to make a clear, informed decision.
Please bear in mind that the information below compares a typical wireless alarm with a hard wired alarm system and is not specific to any particular make or model.
Jump to: Which is right for you?
How much does it cost?
Wireless alarms, wireless PIRs, door contacts etc, are more expensive to buy than wired versions. However they are also much easier to install which reduces the installation time and overall cost.
Use our cost calculator for an estimate of a wireless system.
Hard wired alarm panels and devices are typically cheaper to buy compared to wireless, but there's also the additional cost of the cable, cable clips, trunking etc. Wired systems are usually more expensive in a domestic property due to the complexities and time involved routing and hiding the alarm cables.
How long does it take to install?
Based on a 4 bed detached house – approx 5 hours
Based on a 4 bed detached house – approx 1.5 days
What are the running costs?
Batteries in wireless devices (PIRs, Door contacts, keypads, sirens etc) need replacing every 2 years approximately and the main control panel requires a back-up battery change approximately once every 3-5 years, therefore you will incur slightly higher running costs with wireless.
Since the devices in a hard wired alarm system do not run on batteries there's no battery replacement cost there. However the back-up battery in main control panel and the external siren battery will require changing approximately every 3-5 years, just like wireless.
Which system looks the best?
Wireless systems are cleaner and less disruptive to install so typically look a neater job once finished. However the actual aesthetics of the system will look very similar to hard wired.
Since hard wired systems require cables connecting the main control hub to each device, there may be unsightly trunking and/or cables clipped around door frames and skirting boards.
Which system is less likely to false alarm?
Wireless intruder alarms used to false alarm more than hard wired. That was 10 years ago and technology has moved on a long way since. Opt for one which operates on the 868MHz frequency band, rather than 433MHz, as it's a quieter more stable frequency for alarm systems.
Very reliable. Although most false alarms are caused by mains failures where backup batteries have not been replaced and no longer hold enough charge to temporarily power the system until mains is restored. This can happen on both systems. A good reason for a maintained contract.
Which is more secure?
Lots of people used to be concerned by the potential to jam RF signals, however since wireless systems now conform to BS EN 50131, they have to have in-built anti-jamming detection, eliminating this concern. Also, like hard wired systems, todays wireless intruder alarm systems have anti-masking technology to ensure motion detectors are not intentionally obstructed.
If a cable is cut, accidentally damaged or even gnawed through by mice in the loft, the system should alert you via the tamper circuit (if installed correctly). However, this will require an engineer visit to repair before the system is usable again, unless you're able to programmatically omit the damaged zone(s), potentially leaving areas of the property insecure.
Which performs best?
If batteries are left to run low, the responsiveness of wireless keypads and devices can decrease. However, this should never happen as the control panel will alert you to low batteries/system maintenance before issues arise. Hence the importance of an annual maintenance contract.
Hard wired systems always perform well unless there's a system fault. However both systems perform as well as each other and have to in order to meet EN 50131 British Standards.
Which is easier to extend?
Need a new movement detector in the flat roof extension, summer house or garage? Wireless wins hands down here. Adding a new/additional device to an existing wireless intruder alarm system is as simple as learning the new RF device on to the wireless alarm system and programming the zone type. Done.
Adding an additional device to a wired system can often cause big headaches. If there's not enough spare cores in the cable nearest to new device location it means a new cable run from the main panel. Need a PIR in the summer house at the end of the garden? Forget it (or start digging a trench for cable ducting).
Are they pet friendly?
Yes, both systems can be installed with pet friendly PIRs.
Yes, both systems can be installed with pet friendly PIRs.
Can I temporarily remove the devices?
Need to remove the motion detector to wallpaper or take off the door contact to paint a door frame? No problem with a wireless system. A tamper warning may (should) alert you when you do this but simply entering your master code will silence any internal warning sirens. Once the DIY is done, simple fix the device back in place.
It is not recommended since these devices are hard wired. Should you inadvertently reconnect the wrong wire into the wrong terminal when re-fitting the device you could quite easily disable this zone from the system or even worse short the 12v pair and blow an auxiliary fuse in the main control panel (Bad times. Do not touch!).
Is either system portable?
Moving house? Simply unscrew the control panel and wireless devices off the wall and take it with you. Ensure the mains are switched off before opening the control panel (or even better, call the alarm co.). A wireless alarm is a purchase for life!
No. A hardwired alarm is there to stay. Whilst you could disconnect all devices, main control panel and external siren, you'd need to completely re-cable the system back into a new property. Not something many alarm companies would be happy doing.
* An annual maintenance contract is always recommended with any professionally installed alarm system. You don't want to be "that annoying neighbour" whose alarm false alarms regularly.
In our unbiased opinion, the best wireless alarm systems on the pro-install market today are manufactured by RISCO, Pyronix, Texecom and Visonic. There are some good DIY wireless alarms available too; the best we've come across are Yale's Easy Fit range or Home8 (if you're looking for a smart alarm system).
The best hard wired systems available are probably those made by Honeywell, Texecom and Scantronic.
Hybrid alarms are also available, RISCO make a great hybrid panel called Risco LightSys 2. A hybrid alarm works, as you'd expect, with both hard hired and wireless zones.
In our opinion we would recommend the following:
- Apartment: Wireless alarm, more on security systems for apartments here.
- House/bungalow (finished décor): Wireless alarm.
- House/bungalow (renovation project): Hybrid alarm, where cables can be routed under floorboards, chased into walls and holes drilled will all be made good during renovation.
- House/bungalow (new build): Hybrid alarm, providing the cable installation (AKA - 1st fix) can be done during construction phase.
- Very Large Property: Hybrid or hard-wired alarm as wireless range may struggle to provide adequate coverage.
- Office/commercial unit: Hard wired or hybrid alarm, where cable can be routed above suspended ceilings.
- Industrial unit: Hard wired or hybrid alarm, where cable can be routed in cable trays and trunking is acceptable.
Burglar Alarm Cost Calculator
Use the calculator below to get a rough idea of burglar alarm prices, supplied and fitted by an NSI/SSAIB approved alarm company in your area.
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How much do burglar alarms cost?
Often the first question one asks when considering a home security alarm system and precisely the reason why we, alarm engineers, developed this burglar alarm cost calculator.
Get an approximate cost estimate before speaking to local alarm companies and peace of mind that you're not being ripped off.
You'll also see the option to request a competitive quote from a 'hand-picked selection' of local accredited installers.
Number of Alarm Zones
To provide a realistic cost estimate please tell us how many zones require protection within your property. This is usually front door plus reception rooms, excl. WCs, utility rooms.
Example; The average 4 bed house would typically require 6 zones:
- Front Door
- Entrance Hall
- Dining Room
- 1st Floor Landing (If required)
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